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Argentario - Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo

Mauro Trechiodi draws up a report of the multipitches route Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo, in the spectacular setting of the Argentario promontory. 

Argentario - Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo
Argentario - Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo

The Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo in the promontory of Monte Argentario is a very interesting trad multipitches route.

With good reason, it's considered one of the most beautiful easy (IV grade) multi pitches route of the whole Mediterranean region.

It's composed by 6 pitches, all not much difficult (max IV+), on quite good limestone, in a unique environment: it's an alpine exposed arête, with the features of high-mountain, but overlooking the sea with its rocks, its small islands, and its temperate climate.

Even if the route is trad, the belays are almost all equipped with steel expansion bolts and chains (except a tunnel ring at the end of the 5th pitch). 

 

The small wall at the end
Al muretto finale
ar. Mauro Trechiodi

 

The parking spot is indicated both in the free part of the ClimbAdvisor app and in the page of  Canne d'Organo, in this site. The approach is quite steep, and in some stretches is equipped with fixed ropes.

The climbdown is on foot: from the last belay you must follow an evident path, that first traverses along the ridge, then goes downhill into the wood, up to a sequence of fixed ropes.

Here the list of the pitches

P1, IV+, 25m

BelayFix and chain + ring around a tree

DescriptionCracked arête, first vertical then inclined

P2, IV+, 33m

BelayFix and chain

Description: 3 vertical small walls

P3, IV, 25m

BelayFix and chain

Description3 vertical walls interspersed with ledges

P4, IV-, 20m

BelayFix and chain

DescriptionA sequence of small ramps

P5, III, 30m

BelayTunnel

Description: Easy ramp

P6, III+, 30m

BelayFix and chain 

DescriptionEasy inclined ramp and a small wall before the en d ​​​

 

Argentario - Spigolo delle Canne d'Organo
The second pitch (IV)
Mauro Trechiodi

 

 

 

 

I would like to recommend the wear the helmet both during the climbing and the climb down. In particular, be careful and climb down the fixed ropes tied with your harness and wearing the helmets, because of eventual rockfalls. 

Bring some rings, small/medium nuts, small/medium cams. 

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