For a few years, we began to revamp the few classic routes of the wall named "Placcone" [n.d.t. = Big Slab].
At your arrival at the base of the walls, You'll quickly see why this spot was so named by the first explorers of this zone.
The wall of Peter Pan is located in the eastern part of the Frasassi Canyon south face. Its wall differs from all the other ones of the Canyon, because its rock is older, and therefore more weathered.
After a first, laborious repair work of the existing routes, we started to take a look around, and we saw that both left and right many lines could take shape.
In the optical of a modern climbing spot, all the existing pitches could be extended to a length of 40 meters, to have all lines of equal length.
And that's how this spot began to become interesting.
Once completed the most logic lines, we still have to nail an overhanging part and take a look on the left, where a new area could be established in the future, with many new lines.
The Spot was nameless for a couple of years. For many reasons, it can't be easily grouped in with the other spot of the zone. For example, you seem to be miles from the civilization, and from the top of all the routes, you can see the floor of the Frasassi Canyon, 700 meters below. The path leading to the wall (named "Sentiero dei Gradoni"), just by itself is worth a Sunday stroll.
The riveting sometimes impose to pass a hard move with the last clipped protection below you, and the routes require skilled climbing. The grades are severe.
Anyway, last winter, while we were enjoying the last sunny climbing before the lockdown, we found a good name for this halfway situation:Peter Pan, the cliff in mid-air where you certainly won't find crowd, dogs, and mess.
The route "Via del Placcone", set in 1967, is remained in the middle: we have chosen to not touch it out of respect for the first nailers of the zone, even if I'm sure that someone had seen those walls before them.
Most of the routes have been equipped through a successful crowdfunding campaign.
Please respect the environment, respect the other climbers, and respect the routes. Since the approach is long and the path is exposed, I advise against bringing dogs and children.
All or nearly all the routes are just set so that the helmet and a brush are two indispensable accessories. Either way, you will go back to your car after having spent an unforgettable climbing day.
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