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Fano Adriano: three new climbing areas

Just updated the topo of Fano Adriano, with the recently set climbing areas.

As always, the update is free for all those who have already got Fano Adriano.

Follow us: the topos of many new spots are coming... 

New climbing areas in Fano Adriano
The new climbing areas in Fano Adriano
Gianluca Di Benedetto

For years I was convinced that in Fano was almost impossible to establish new climbing areas and that the spur near the fountain Cannalecchia was not that interesting.

But, as often happens,  I had looked not closely at it... then, one day, in a period of enforced inactivity I wanted to take a closer look at the wall to understand its true potential.

It was 2014. As a result, I was still not sure: the approach and the space at the bottom of the wall were too steep (a not-small problem, which, however, then got solved by the providential intervention of Lino Di Marcello), and, overall, the rock was a bit too "crusty" in the first meters and in high there were some worrying big rocks. I visited also the walls into the wood… the rock was far better, but it was all in shadow, and at that time I was not looking for a summer area. So the pics of that walls stayed for a long time filed on my PC. Sometimes I'd watch it and daydreaming about some new line.

Things took an interesting turn between 2017 and 2018, when, under my usual bolting raptus of the fall season, due to growing saturation of the historical area, I resolved to establish new lines to climb the whole spur.  From a confrontation with the mountain guide Paolo De Laurentissprang that we disagreed on everything. So we started to work on two separate projects, which, however, then we realized together in various stages.


Paolo De Laurentis opening the third pitch of Exit Poll
Paolo De Laurentis opening the third pitch of Exit Poll
Gianluca Di Benedetto

Thus "Paoletto", with his historical climbing partner Biagio Mengoli started to set a line on the right side of the wall, characterized by an amazing traverse through red rock, under a big roof.  instead, I wanted to set a more straight line near the left arête, and so I started to clean the wall with the help of Camillo Troisi, Paola Di Giacomo and Stefano De Sanctis.

After some attempts and several stops,  we got a bit stuck, so we decided we decided to join forces to finish our projects.  We started from the route of Paoletto (Exit poll), which was stagnant at the second pitch, and we finished the stunning traverse and the end. Nut overall we cleaned the route, to make it more friendly.

Then we finished "my route": the third pitch had not been begun. So we created a variant of the first pitch to avoid a particularly hard part. Then, having a new privileged view from atop the just set belays, I saw that there was room for some interesting single pitches. Thus we started to establish the most evident and nice routes. The wall is not already fully saturated and we have many projects to expand the number of single and multi-pitches routes. But for a while the focus has shifted elsewhere, and we established two new areas… maybe next fall another bolting raptus will make us finish our first projects…


Lino Di Marcello on Bit, in Pandemia area
Lino Di Marcello on Bit, in Pandemia area
Gianluca Di Benedetto

Choosing the climbing spot is a crucial node, in this period of pandemic. We must avoid gatherings. Are we really capable of regulating ourselves and renounce a climbing day in the spot we chose, if upon our arrival we find other team ropes already climbing?

For a while longer it will be necessary to think outside of the box and to favor alternative destination and more secluded and quiet spot! 

The new areas of Fano Adriano, in a pleasant shadow, just published by ClimbAdvisor, could give a valid alternative to the Historical area but, in case of overcrowding, please consider some other options, like Pietracamela, (in particular the Settore Superiore, not much frequented during the last years), or the spot of the Gran Sasso (Arapietra above all), kick-starting the beginning of the season.

We commit ourselves to publish as soon as possible some new topos, to increase the choice of the frequentable spots. But, now, more than ever, a sense of responsibility on the part of all is required, to avoid further bans and closures.

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