Description

The Balzo dell’Antillinara is a nice cliff of limestone, located on the mountainous shore that joins the between the town of Subiaco and the Livata Mountain.

The rock wall is of compact limestone with water erosion pockets and pockets, different for genesis and morphology from the other cliff around Subiaco. It’s a sub-vertical rock wall, slightly bulging, crossed in the middle by a cracked corner.

It’s South faced, and gets sunny since 9:00; thus is ideal for climbing in winter.  It has nice routes of low/medium level (a rarity in the Subiaco area, where almost all the crag are of medium/high level, and good for climbing in summer or during the mid seasons).

The routes are about 30m in length, and continuous.  Thus the climbing style is technical, continuous and never bouldery.

The Balzo dell’Antillinara is located in a magnificent setting, among the forests of the Simbruini mountains,  and a few miles from the precious Medieval cave paintings of Holy Grotto and the Library of the Monasteries of St. Benedict and St. Scolastica.

Many pitons and old bolts witness that in the past this cliff was climbed by several local mountaineers.

In 2017 Giuliano Pelliccia and Simone Orlandi, started to re-equip this crag, intending to broaden the climbing offer of Subiaco, adding some routes of a low/medium level, and good for climbing in winter.

The old bolts have been all removed, and replaced with stainless steel expansion bolts and belays (except few bolts in steel, placed in 2005, that are still good).

Thanks to the climbers of Subiaco foto their financial and emotional support, and to the Vivere l’Aniene Association for some of the belays used to set this crag.

Approach

From Subiaco follow the signs to “Monte Livata”. Once at “Montore”, take the uphill road on the right side of a small chapel with the statue of the Virgin Mary. Continue on the road, that gets steep downhill, and at the first junction, turn right, following the signs to Contrada Le Camere. Continue for about 300m. Once at the next junction, turn left going along a tall stone wall. Staying always on the left, continue along the paved road, pass through the ditch, and continue along the road, first uphill, then flat, up to the end of the road:  a widening with an olive tree in the middle, a big gate and an electric cabinet (ENEL). Park your car in this widening (41.923978, 13.110357) and continue on foot.

If you use the GPS navigator, don’t ask directions for the coordinates of the parking spot: you could be lead through narrow and uneven road. Ask first the directions for Via del Cerasolo. Once there, continue, pass the downhill stretch, then ask for “Contrada Le Camere 72”.