Description

Colle Tordina has always been a real climbers playground. Rather than a cliff, it is a group of perfect calcarenite outcrops. The quality if the rock, indeed, makes unique this climbing spot. Moreover these outcrops offer all types of facing, so that you can always find some route exposed to the sun, or in shadow, and pick the one is more comfortable depending on the temperature.

These rock groups are located at 700m above the sea level. It are fresh and dry in summer, but good for climbing in winter too, when the temperature inversion occurs.

The climbing style of the calcarenite outcrops is like bouldering, whereas in the ‘Ngula area is more traditional, as in the other climbing spots of the underlying valley.

There are many entry level pitches, that can be afforded by beginners, even as heading.

The pitches above the 6b grade are genuine boulders, too long to be climbed only with crash pad.

Pay attention to the belays: not all the routes are equipped with chain and lowering carabiner. Some routes (the less repeated ones) have a “french” kind of belay.

The crag is often visited by roe deers and and wild boars, so, please, don’t leave foodwaste such as leftover or fruit peels.

Approach

Colle Tordina is located in the mountain range of Murano Mountain. Such mountain, even if only 900m height, impressive stands in the valley of the Esino river,  forming the Gola della Rossa (Rossa Gorge). Its North face, instead, is characterized by vast high altitude meadow-lands.

Either from the coast or from the  hinterland, get the SS76 road, and exit at Serra San Quirico. Then continue up to the district Stazione and go uphill to historical center of Serra San Quirico, where the old castle and its “copertelle” often host street boulder events. It deserves a short visit. From the town of Serra San Quirico continue uphill for only 2,5km, following the signs to Arcevia. After an upward stretch, the road comes down to a bridge, curving on the left to a dirty road (SP14 road, 43.459001, 13.004289). Such road goes uphill to Monte Murano (Murano Mountain). Follow this dirty road up to a semi-flat stretch, near a pic.nic area. then turn left, taking a paved road.  Follow this steep uphill road up to the Monte Murano’s antennas.  Park your car near the first farmhouse you find. Such farmhouse is located near a nice pine wood 5,8km from the crossroad between the SP14 road and the road to Monte Murano.