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Something about La Sbarra


The name of this crag (La Sbarra = The Barrier) came from the bar that prevents cars passing through the Gola della Rossa. The limestone wall is East exposed, but a mountain leaves it in shadow until late morning. Thus climbing is recommended only in the mid seasons. In summer you can climb only late in the afternoon. Not recommended in winter.

The limestone is not chossy, even if not excellent. The climbing is mostly past slab, with some small overhangs. the approach is very short and easy, and the space under the routes is wide and comfortable. the difficulties are low, and the bolting is very generous and safe.


Whether from Rome or from Ancona, take the SS76 road of Val d’Esino and exit to Genga – Grotte di Frasassi. Then follow the signs to Falcioni – Pontechiaradovo. Pass the Falcioni and Pontechiaradovo towns and continue up to a railway crossing on a bridge (over a river). Cross that bridge and turn to the right. You must have the river on your right and the rock wall of Pontechiaradovo crag on your left. Go straight along the rock wall. Once at a left turn, take the raised road on the left (passing over a tunnel of the underlying SS76 road), and continue. Once at an electric substation on the right side of the road, park your car where you can.