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Something about the Monte Moneta

Monte Moneta
WildClimb

  • Scarpette d'arrampicata

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Description

Sant'Agostino plain is dominated by two large rock structures, Monte Vannelamare (257 m), historically called Sperlonga by the climbers, and Monte Moneta (270 m) characterized by a very overhanging reddish central sector and several adjacent spurs.

Since from the '60 these walls were occasionally frequented by climbers, who were passing trough towards the near walls of Monte Orlando (Gaeta) to climb a couple of very peculiar itineraries equipped by Luigi Mario and Giorgio Schanzer (Via dei Camini) in 1955 and by Enrico Camilleri, Paolo and Bruno Gradi "Dado" Morandi (Via dello Spigolo) in 1960.

The route climbed by Geri Steve and Enzo de Ruvo in 1963 passes through the large chimney right of the large red roofs, but we have to wait the '80 to see the first faint attempts to climb more challenging routes. Massimo Frezzotti and Chicca Colesanti were the first to open a route on the Avancorpo di Sinistra in 1982, with the prophetic name Speranze di tempi migliori (Hope for better times), but only starting from the middle of '80, especially by the systematic use of spits and equipping from above, a group of young climbers brought a decisive contribution to the development of sport climbing in Lazio creating one of the most important rock climbing sites in Italy that now has hundreds of routes on spectacular rock. To the pioneers Bruno Vitale, Gualtiero Gianni, Furio Pennisi, Andrea Di Bari, Roberto Ciato joined and succeded over the years many other enthusiasts like Nicola Cosenza, the inevitable Roberto Ferrante, Federico D'Isep and the austrian Gauster. In nearly 35 years of steady attendance, an impressive heritage of routes was created and constantly renewed, that is maintained in good conditions using whenever possible the scarce resources raised through small donations and occasional contributions from schools of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), without any public financial support, but only thanks to the enthusiasm and good will of few climbers, first of all the priceless Bruno Vitale. We recall in this regard the "green box" at Ristoro "Da Guido", the climbers gathering place. The box is used to raise funds for the replacement of deteriorated material and to maintain in good conditions the routes, which are, only at Monte Moneta, more then 200.

The crag is typically winter with the wall generally facing south. The best months to climb are from October to May, but in warmer season it is possible to combine a few hours of afternoon climbing to a day spent on the beautiful St. Agostino beach. Do not miss the spectacular sunsets with the fiery red sun dipping into the sea after the Pontine islands.



Approach

Coming from the North and from Rome it is possible to take the A1 Milan-Naples, exit at Ferentino and follow the signs for Latina reaching the regional road Monti Lepini (SR 156). About after 20 km follows the signs to Terracina and take the Priverno-Terracina roadway (SA 255), which comes out on the Appia road just before Terracina. From here follow the signs for Fondi / Formia / Napoli taking a bypass (variant SS7) that at the end of a tunnel allows entry on Flacca (SS 213) towards Sperlonga / Gaeta. Exceeded Sperlonga, continue towards Gaeta and pass four galleries, the latter of which comes out on the Piana di St. Agostino. The meeting place and starting point for approaching the walls is the "Ristoro da Guido" (the Mozzarellaro), which is the first restaurant on the left (km 20,900 SS Flacca).

 

From South Rome you can follow the SS Pontina (SS 148) and before entering the town of Terracina take the bypass (Variante SS 7) following the signs for Fondi / Formia / Napoli as for the previous itinerary.

 

From Southern Italy and Naples take the highway A1 Milano-Napoli northbound and exit at Cassino. Take the roadway (SS 630) towards Formia, then follow the signs for Gaeta and from there continue on Flacca (SS 213) and follow the signs for Sperlonga. About 6 km after Gaeta you reach the Piana di St. Agostino and the " Ristoro da Guido" at km 20,900 of the SS Flacca (the last on the right).