Description
This is an important group of cliffs, not far from each other, considered a Gran Sasso “historic piece”. The first explorations are dated back to the thirties. In this place, one of the oldest rock climbing wall in Italy, the “Aquilotti”, historical group of mountaineers, settled themselves up. It was the first recognised group of alpinists in Italy. The first development of the walls is merit to the well-known mountain guide Lino D'Angelo, who did great and important feats on the Gran Sasso. Gigi Mario leaves its signs establishing some interesting routes. One of the members of Aquilotti, Enrico De Luca (who sadly recently died), together with the very good climber Giampiero Di Federico, did the first route of “Falesia Alta”. The crag has been abandoned for a long period, and it has been used mainly as a second best solution. Only in 1999, thanks to a council funding, it has been bolted (the entire Aquilotti zone), thanks to the very good job done by Sabbatini, Di Donato and Di Giammarco the cliff has come back to life. An important improvement was done, since 2000, by Paolo De Laurentis, who did elegant and sustained pitches.
The climbing style is mostly technical ranging from beautiful slabs to alpine-style corners and cracks. There are also sustained pitches and athletic and rough overhangs. The rock is a very solid grey - yellow limestone, with some areas of conglomerate. The ideal season is summer, but climbing is possible even in the early fall and late spring, if weather is good.
The rockslide of 2011, which involved a large area of Falesia Alta, required a long process of cleaning up and restoring paths only partly completed. We highly recommend visiting the quiet village of Pietracamela. There are numerous hiking opportunities.
Approach
From Teramo or from Montorio: SS80 until the junction to Prati di Tivo (SP43), follow the signs to Pietracamela. From the center of the town “Pietracamela” continue for about 300 meters in direction of Prati di Tivo. Near a small playground with benches, take the obvious road to the right, pass some houses and continue on the narrow downhill road which becomes a steep track uphill. At the end of the road you can park your car in a comfortable area to the right, just in front of the first zone.
Coming from A24 is recommended the exit Val Vomano, then follow the signs to Montorio (SS150).
Coming from A14 it is advisable to drive on Teramo – mare freeway, and exit Teramo west, then follow the signs to Montorio (SS80).
From l’Aquila, instead of A24 it is possible to take the SS80 (passo delle Capannelle) until the junction to Prati di Tivo (SP43). From this point, see above.
