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Something about Rocca Carpanea


This guide contains four crags recently equipped by Giorgio Delfino on the Rocca Carpanea: the Falesia del Kaimano (2017), la Falesia del Scorpione (2016), la Falesia del Riccio (2016), la Falesia della Lumaca (2016).

The Falesie dello Scorpione, del Riccio e della Lumaca are quite close with each other,  whereas the Falesia del Caimano is on another side.

All are good for climbing in mid seasons, and, for a half day, in summer. But as for climbing in winter, the Falesia del Caimano is not good, whereas the three other are good.

The routes of this guide are about 66, all well equipped, on excellent rough limestone, through vertical or slightly overhanging walls with pockets. The difficulty is medium/low.

The Falesia del Riccio and Falesia dello Scorpione are good for families with children, whereas the Falesia del Kaimano is not good.

The routes are almost all beautiful, so many unmissable routes are out of the list.


Take the  A10 highway (Autostrada dei Fiori) and exit at Finale Ligure. Once at the roundabout, take the downhill road to Finale. Once at the following runabout turn left toward the Calice town.

Continue along the main road for about 1.5 Km. Passed a bottleneck and some houses on the right, look for a fork on the right, with the sign to “Zona monumentale di Perti”.

Once at this fork turn right and continue uphill for about 1Km, up to a small square. Pass a church on the left and continue along the same road (Via Don Mario Scarrone) for about 1Km (it’s a narrow road). After a downhill stretch, and a short uphill one, there is a flat stretch with some houses on the right. Just after these houses there is the parking spot, with some olive trees.