Description

This guide contains two crags, both quite recently discovered and equipped by Giorgio Delfino (around 2007): the Falesia del Sole and the Falesia della Luna.

Both are very nice and well equipped.

The cliff is a nice vertical or overhanging wall of excellent rough limestone, with pockets and crimps. The climbing style is slabby, but requiring some strength too.

The routes are of a low-medium length and low-medium difficulty.

It’s good for climbing during the mid seasons, and in summer too, for a half day.

Both the crags are good for families with children.

Approach

FROM GENOVA:

Take the highway A10 (Autostrada dei Fiori), direction Ventimiglia, and exit at Spotorno. Once at the STOP sign, turn right following the signs to Tosse. Pass Tosse and go toward  Vezzi - Portio. Exit from Vezzi - Portio, and, once at the junction to Noli, turn right downhill following the signs to Finale. Continue for about 3Km toward Finale. Once at the bottom of the valley, turn left, and, after about 300m, turn right following the signs to Boragni. Pass the town of Boragni. About 300m after Boragni, at a curve on the right, there is a picnic area and the parking spot for the crag.

As an alternative, from Genova take the highway A10 (Autostrada dei Fiori) direction Ventimiglia, and exit at Feglino. Once at the STOP sign, go left toward Orco, passing under the highway viaduct, and continue on the wide, but a very winding road to Orco for 2Km. Once at the junction, after 2Km, turn left following the signs to Orco. After about other 500m there is the parking spot of the Orco Church. From there continue toward the parking spot of Boragni, as described above, near a pic sic area, 300m before the town of Boragni.

FROM PIETRA LIGURE:

Take the A10 highway (Autostrada dei Fiori) direction Genova and exit at Finale Ligure. Once at the runabout, go downhill following the signs to Finale. Continue for about 1Km, up to the second runabout. Once at the second runabout, turn right and continue for about other 500m. Then turn left downhill, cross the iron bridge with a traffic light. Once at the STOP sign turn right, continue for about 200m, then turn left among the houses. Once at the STOP sign turn left toward Finalborgo.  Continue for about 1Km, up to a crossroad (in the inhabited), turn left following the signs to Feglino. Continue for about 3Km along the valley (SP27 road). Just a passed the sign to the Agriturismo A Ca’ di Alice (on the left), turn left uphill following the sign to Orco. Continue for about  3Km, up to the parking spot of the Orco Church. from there continue toward the parking spot of Boragni, as described above, near a pic sic area, 300m before the town of Boragni.