Skip to main content

Something about Val Sciusa


This book guide contains, at now, only one crag, discovered and equipped by Giorgio Delfino in 2017: the Falesia dello Scoiattolo.

It’s a small crag, good for climbing during the mid-seasons. The approach is long but not awkward, good for families with children.

The routes are about a dozen, not very long, but well equipped, going through vertical or slightly overhanging walls, of excellent rough limestone sprinkled with pockets.


FROM GENOVA: Take the  A10 highway (Autostrada dei Fiori) direction Ventimiglia and exit at Spotorno. Once at the STOP sign, turn right following the direction to the town of Tosse. Pass Tosse and continue following toward the town of Magnone. Pass Magnone too, and continue. Once at the junction to Noli, turn right, downhill for about 3 Km, following the signs to Finale. Continue up to the bottom of the valley. Once at the STOP sign, turn left and continue for about 2 Km. After a bottleneck curve, the road gets wider. Continue on this road up to the first cluster of houses, pass the Camping of Gioele (on the right side of the road) and continue for about 200m up to the “Vicolo Bedina”, a small road on the right, bordered by stone walls. This small road is not well visible. If you don’t see it and go on, you will see a church, and so realize that you have to come back.

Take the Vicolo Bedina and, after 50m, turn right. Continue uphill for about 700m, up to the old church of Calvisio Vecchia.

FROM PIETRA LIGURE:  Take the  A10 highway (Autostrada dei Fiori) direction Genova, and exit at Finale Ligure. Once at the roundabout, take the downhill road to the town of Finale, and continue for about 1 Km. Once at the second roundabout, turn right, up to the junction with the Aurelia road. Once at the STOP sign, turn left, going toward the center of Finale Ligure. Pass the first roundabout, and continue straight along the Aurelia road, exiting from the town. Once at a second roundabout, before a tunnel, turn left toward Calvisio - Vezzi Portio. Continue on the road along the river for about 1.5 Km, up to a bridge, close to a parking spot and to a church (on the left). Continue for some meters, up to the Vicolo Bedina, that is a small road bordered by stone walls, on the left. Then continue as descriptor above from Genova.