Description

The Falesia del Re is a high cliff of massif limestone, well visible fon the characteristic town of Pieia, near the Sasso del Re spur, on the Southern face of the monte Nerone (Nerone Mountain).

Discovered in December 2016, it’s a compact vertical grey/yellow rock wall, somewhere slightly overhanging. In the leftmost part, instead, it gets more overhanging and lacking of holds of the wall, offering the most difficult routes.

Each line of this wall is characterized by a superb limestone sprinkler with pockets.

The climbing style is technique, but requiring endurance, in particular on some routes 35 m in length.

As the wall offers a wide variety of pocket and buckets, almost all the routes are not bouldery, except for few lines on the leftmost part (an unique climbing style in the Monte Nerone area).

The rock wall is on the slope of a mountain, embedded in a mountain environment, so it’s recommended the use of the helmet.

The view from the crag is very suggestive, sweeping from the small town of Pieia to the mountains of Petrano, Catria, Cucco, and, on a clear day, up the Sibillini Chain.

The South East exposure allows the climbing for the most part of the year. This crag is ideal for climbing during the mid seasons. In summer the rock wall goes in shadow at 14:00, and, being at 1000m above the sea level, it’s cool even during the hottest days. In winter climbing is possible in the morning, during the sunny days.

Approach

FROM ROME (or FROM SOUTH): take the highway A1 to Firenze, and exit at Orte.  Then turn left taking the E35 road toward Terni, and (just before Terni), exit at Perugia/Cesena, taking the SS3bis (Via Flaminia). Continue for several dozen Kilometres, passing Spoleto, Foligno etc, up to the exit to Cagli Ovest. Exit at Cagli Ovest, and continue toward Secchiano. pass the town of Secchiano, and continue up to Pianello. Once at the square of Pianello take the only uphill road toward Monte Nerone direction Pieia and continue following the signs to Pieia (thus at the crossroad to Cerreto, go toward Pieia). Once at Pieia, continue toward Monte Nerone following the paved road. The paved road gets dirt and uneven; after about 500m there is a crossroad. Turn right and continue uphill for about 3 Km up to a hairpin turn on the left, where you can see a small widening just under the Sasso del Re (a big rock spur), where you can park your car.

FROM TUSCANY or FROM THE NORTH OF UMBRIA:

Go to the town of Città di Castello. Once at Città di Castello take the SP 257 road; Continue going through the pass of Bocca Serriola Pass, then pass the town of Apecchio up to the crossroad to Serravalle di Carda; Once at this crossroad, turn right and go uphill up to the pass of Serravalle. The continue up to the town of Pianello. Then follow the instruction as from the South.