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Falesia del Re: a new area has just been set

The Falesia del Re has been expanded, and the ClimbAdvisor guide has been updated: a brand new area, Sasso della Regina, and new routes in  Sasso del Re. Francesco Poderini introduces the latest.

Sasso del Re, Energizer (7c+)
Energizer (7c+)
Frank Migliorati

The Falesia del Re is located on two adjacent rocky structures, 1000 meters above the sea level, on the South face of the Nerone Mountain, in Marche (Central Italy), over the small town of Pieia.

The first routes, on the rightmost wall, have been set by me, Frank Migliorati and Lorenzo Berni between the summer 2017 and spring  2018. 

The spot became in short very popular, and we, encouraged by this success, between summer and autumn 2018, expanded the first climbing area and established a second one, on the leftmost wall.

Now there are almost 30 lines, on excellent massif limestone, equipped with certified stainless steel expansion bolts, and sport climbing oriented.

Both the areas go in shadow in the afternoon, thus they are good for climbing during the mid seasons, and, in summer, in the afternoon.

Even if the approach is quite short, the Falesia del Re is not recommended for families with children because the space at the bottom of the wall is narrow and quite precipitous.  

The sport climbing oriented bolting is not the only strong point of this crag: the limestone quality is excellent. the lines are long and quite continuous (this good for training). The view is superb.

Sasso del Re
Sasso del Re
Manuel Valenti

The climbing style is technical. In the first area, it requires also endurance, because the routes are long.

The range of difficulties is quite wide: this spot is good from 6a on, from 7a on and even from 8a on.

Its two areas, in many respects quite similar,  differ for the hods variety. The holds of the first area are mainly pockets or buckets. The ones of the second, instead, are more various: in addition to the pockets, there are crimps and slopes.

Stefano Cosimi su Raptors
Stefano Cosimi su Raptors (8a)
Frank Migliorati

The lines, in the climber opinion, are all nice. they are mainly vertical, but there are some overhangs too, and some nice roofs.

Falesia del Re is recommended for all those who need just a 6a route (or more) for warming up.

It's not easy to recommend a vertical line through all. They are all nice and different difficulties. the best for warming up from 6a to 6b are probably Clessidre, Scacco MattoEleos and Cip.  

Among the overhangs, I want to mention the latest in the Sasso del re area, set during the last summer:

  • Raptors (8a), a continuous overhang that forces you to fight till the end. 
  • La Mappa dei Sogni (7c+), nice and demanding

In the new area, instead, I recommend Scacco Matto (6b). It's a medium/low level route offering all climbing styles: slab, corner, and even a small roof.

Just a few meters away there is the queen of the area: Ayla (7b+). It's really an unmissable route. It's a vertical wall with a wide variety of holds:  pockets at the start then crimps and slopes at the end. Don't miss! 

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